14 sept. 2021
No Ralph, no Tommy and no Calvin, but a very busy season for New York Fashion Week, after five and a half days of shows that wrapped up on Sunday night.
Last major show: Tom Ford, of course! The President of the American Council of Fashion Designers concluded a busy week. The most comprehensive official program – that of NYFW The Shows – had more than a hundred collections on the agenda. The most striking, in our opinion, was that of Khaite, the new star of the Empire State.
Tom Ford: Individualism for Instagrammers at Lincoln Center
In the past, Tom Ford has injected all the more retro American glamor into several major European houses… now he’s incorporating European panache into his own heavyweight label. Italian optimism eighties and French chic seventies, with a touch of LA energy
Take a look, for example, in her leopard-print corsair and blazer combinations, or even her moiré velvet knotted shirts worn over velvet jodhpur pants, two star looks from this spring-summer 2022 collection by Tom Ford. In these narcissistic times, he creates clothes that grab the attention of a clientele eager for that attention, like all those who attended the parade this Sunday, at the David H Koch Theater at Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.
There was in particular Saweetie, the aptly named, barely wrapped in a tiny laced dress, or Pom Klementieff in a zebra print micro jacket and Jennifer Hudson in a velvet bathrobe, silk top and leather skirt, all purple in color. Roman Empire. And the queen of fierce public attention, influencer Camila Coelho, in a biomorphic magenta fishnet lace mini evening dress worn over ultra-shiny fuchsia tights.
The clothes were the kind that made all the models roll off the shoulders. The accessories were big and daring: massive necklaces, thick golden belts or shiny metal bracelets. And there are never too many of them, like with this top model in a sports bra and parakeet green satin mesh, with golden ankle straps.
History that nobody misses the message, Tom Ford had planned not one but five BTS (that is to say events behind the scenes, “behind the scenes”) and links to the first looks. There were three times as many guests as there were models.
“More and more, people are not looking to dress fashionable for the day, but for the evening. Or social media. Ultimately, maybe Instagram will save the fashion. people no longer put on their thirty-one for the red carpet, or to flood their page with portraits of themselves in super stylish outfits. Black doesn’t look good in pictures, and clothes tend to be more and more cartoonish to type hard enough on the small screens of our phones. It alters our perception of beauty. In any case, it changed mine “, explained Tom Ford in a statement frank of the collar.
Which is an honest way to describe his intentions. Even if to be completely honest in our assessment, it had been a long time since Tom Ford had delivered such an unremarkable collection.
Khaite: conceptual sportswear that comes at the right time
No brand has had as much influence on American fashion over the past two years as Khaite, with its American sportswear revisited from a cool and conceptual angle by designer Catherine Holstein.
Take the opening looks of her Sunday show: a cool eight-button military coat, but in silver satin and worn by Gigi Hadid; or a trapeze-shaped canvas parka, subverted by contrasting black patch pockets.
Catherine Holstein’s talent is expressed in deceptively simple creations, while she subtly relaunches classic ideas: like these skilfully draped Greek muse dresses, revisited with endless stripes, ties and braces. It is never fashion with a capital “M”, but rather clothes that are both dapper and sophisticated, which give the impression of a woman who does not need to put in the effort. Someone who can do without a stylist or a shopper to dress.
When Catherine imagines an oversized silver baseball jacket for Khaite, it’s a flattering piece, which doesn’t engulf the lady wearing it. When she inflates shoulder bags to form monumental spiers, they appear quirky but not eccentric.
His color palette includes silver, jade, oak and steel, and has always referred to his main source of inspiration, the spectacular architecture of New York. However, the parade was organized in semi-darkness, on a podium silted up and strewn with leaves, an atmosphere full of charm. The styling by Vanessa Traina was perfect, and the casting of Piergiorgio Del Moro sumptuous: exactly what this New York season needed, a moment of sensual and romantic grace.
It’s a shame that we have been so few Europeans to be able to attend it in real life to be immersed in it.
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