“If we want to be ecological, we simply have to consume less. Bar point “

In her HQ on rue des Petits-Champs, a stone’s throw from Place des Victoires, Isabel Marant welcomes us with a big smile, with her Breton earthenware cup in her hands. The famous custom-made “first name bowl” respects his own spelling: “Isabel”. At the moment, he follows her everywhere as a new accessory, not to drink her coffee but to avoid scattering tobacco crumbs when she rolls her cigarettes. Dressed in an asymmetrical floral top with a puffed sleeve and mini-Bermuda shorts, grigri around the neck, she receives us at lunchtime, between two fittings.

On September 30, the designer will present her new women’s collection with a face-to-face show. It is one of the thirty-seven brands that will physically parade in Paris this season. Did he miss fashion week? No, strangely. “I thought it was nice to have the opportunity to think about something else. It also gave us the opportunity to interact with talents from different disciplines. The parades that follow one another are very repetitive in the end… It feels good to take a break from time to time when you’re stuck in the hamster wheel. But I’m still happy to do a show again because it remains in my eyes one of the most effective ways to present a collection. ”

Electric Blue Vinyl Shards

During the pandemic, the designer thus had the leisure to experiment with a new format: “Parade “- the formula is from her, launched at the microphone of journalist Loïc Prigent – these videos created during a period of confinement to fill the absence of shows. To film her fall-winter 2020-2021 collection, she has chosen to work with French director Simon Cahn. “His universe corresponded to the energy that I wanted to transmit: I wanted to send a kind of adrenaline shot with a mini-clip, rather than making a film-river. ”

She added a bespoke soundtrack, developed by Gabber Eleganza (named after the artistic project created by Alberto Guerrini, an Italian DJ passionate about hardcore culture), which echoes the brutalist setting of the filming location. “We’ve never met, but there is a real musical affinity between us. For this clip, I told him: “I would like a little westernish vibe; listen to Ennio Morricone and Ry Cooder, and make me a modernized, slightly electro sauce. ” “

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In the silhouettes, we instantly recognize the Marant paw, this mixture of androgyny and old lace, these easy-to-wear cuts and these embroidered patterns. Total guipure looks pop off the screen, folk-inspired dresses in floral velvet stand side by side with chunky knit sweaters with sportswear details, all awakened by bursts of electric blue vinyl. “In my work, matter is essential. I am not someone who draws, I rather do intentional sketches. I quickly switch to 3D: volume is what interests me the most. ” On his desk, we notice piles of fabric models, finishing trials, miniaturized silhouettes made from collages. “I need to experiment a lot. “

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