PortraitStandard outfits (1/6). In contemporary fictions, the choice of wardrobe is essential to build the characters. A challenge for Anne-Sophie Gledhill responsible for dressing the actors of the successful Arte series, who questioned their social and geographic origins.
“Everything you feel has its place here. “ The sentence is spoken calmly by a man wearing a green sweater, jeans, and brand new brown high shoes. But who really paid attention to the way in which Philippe Dayan is dressed, who has become, since the broadcast, in February, ofIn therapy, the Arte series created by Olivier Nakache and Eric Toledano, the most famous shrink in France?
In prime time, television was already showing the blue shirts of a Christophe André, the gray jackets of a Boris Cyrulnik, the black sets of a Marcel Rufo. During the preparation, the costume designer Anne-Sophie Gledhill had pinned this kind of silhouettes on her moodboard, in order to be inspired by them to design the wardrobe of Doctor Dayan: “Bulk images of today’s shrinks. Media, anonymous, bloggers. ”
Divided into 35 episodes, the success of the first season – over 40 million views – demanded patience and precision from Anne-Sophie Gledhill. “We first started working together with the decorator. Knowing that the series consists of a face-to-face meeting between a shrink and one or more patients in a single place, the image had to be both beautiful and a little deaf, so that nothing creaks. We agreed on a range of soft tones, grays, browns, beiges, blues, enhanced with reds, more lively ”, she says in the premises of Mauvais Garçons, a Parisian costume rental company with whom she is accustomed.
Parisian or provincial? Young or old? Rich or poor?
Then came the time for questioning. What to wear to this central character so that he is fair, not too dull? A two-piece suit? Mandarin collar? A sophisticated scarf? “He had to be a character both accessible and reassuring, modern but not too distinctive: I opted for a kind of benevolent neutrality”, she said: woolen V-neck sweaters and khaki jackets, cotton or denim canvas pants, leather shoes, a rusty scarf. We had to be careful that Dayan, interpreted by the subtle Frédéric Pierrot, does not wear the same colors as the one he receives during the session. “If everyone had the same blue sweater, it would be painful for the spectator, who looks at them both for thirty minutes. “
Clothing attracts him, intrigues him. “But not the fashion world, rather the sociological dimension of clothing: what it tells about an environment, an origin, a desire to show oneself to the world at a given moment. »Anne-Sophie Gledhill
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