Nature, the arts, stellar phenomena: fine jewelry houses often like to compose variations on the same collection themes – originality is not always the strong point of Place Vendôme. This season, light is an obsession. This motif is both practical for workshops whose mission is to resonate with stones and light, and easy to defend with wealthy customers in search of post-pandemic recovery – “After the last few months, we all need light and energy”, it is repeated everywhere, as the ultimate element of language.
“We wanted to explore all the nuances of a night, from the start to the very end of an evening”, starts Christophe Bourrie, director of fine jewelry at Piaget. From the sunset that takes on the allure of a deep ruby set from Mozambique, we move on to the Northern Lights with a white gold necklace in wire-knife technique dotted with purple, pink and blue sapphires. This, to land in the early morning on a round ring where a yellow diamond bursts. “That we wanted soft, like the rising sun”.
For its first collection under the Richemont flag (the Swiss group bought the label in 2019), Buccellati spices up its Renaissance spirit and the finesse of its designs in more tangy colors, as if to let in warmth. His collection features a lush garden at dawn, in the style of impressionist painters: jasmine rings in topaz or Damascus rose in spinel, lobelia earrings in zircon and tsavorite. When its signature-engraved brushed gold cuffs move, reflections are reflected by imposing rubellites or tourmalines.
Mutant nymphs and mirror balls
Some jewelers have chosen to confront the light through a particular material. Valérie Messika, whose creative and commercial force has always been diamonds, has fun multiplying solar yellow diamonds that she likes to cut in pear, on buckles, rings or bracelets. But also hoops, head or foot jewelry, less classic shapes that are the salt of his proposal.
At Vever, it is plique-à-jour enamel that lets spokes pass through it, on Art Nouveau but mutant nymphs, like Luc Besson’s heroines. The jeweler, who disappeared in 1982, is attempting his rebirth this year. “I worked in finance but have always had, since a jewel offered by my grandmother for my 16th birthday, this desire to revive our heritage”, explains Camille Vever, heir to the family gem. Recipe ? A clash between old and modern, with pieces paying homage to Art Nouveau which allowed the label to triumph at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, but spiced up with very fashionable synthetic diamonds that most of the Place Vendôme competitors are reluctant to adopt. .
“I wanted to work on color through the prism of light”, advances Claire Choisne, the director of creations at Boucheron. Illustration with a radical and cheerful bias: a collaboration with Saint-Gobain. The house thus favors a holographic coating designed by the industrial group and applies it to its colored jewelry in white ceramic or rock crystal. Mounted in white gold and often with diamonds, they are constantly changing: depending on their inclination and the way they meet the rays, a blue reflection changes to orange, while a sparkle of fuchsia or green spins. They then take the garb of sculptures by Daniel Buren. Even, when worn in the sun, mirror balls.