A woman gives her baby mash while crunching in a burger. Two students sit around a speckled red table. A young girl checks the perfection of her figure in the mirrors that face each other. A tall fellow asks him his first name, writes it down on the bill. Baby Love Burger is the Parisian interpretation of burger joint (“Burger bar”). Everyone comes and goes in this place open to the wind, designed and produced by an essential duo from rue Saint-Maur, in Paris, in the 11e arrondissement.
Camille Fourmont is at the head of La Buvette, at number 67 de la rue. She established herself less than ten years ago as the gentle and refined sheet metal worker of the neighborhood, serving plain wines and platters behind her counter. Jérémy Kanza, he put on Balls twenty acts further on, on the same sidewalk, a few years after the opening of La Buvette. He serves endless variations around the meatball. Like good neighbors, they sympathize on the sidewalk.
Today they are jointly opening this place devoted to the most French of American sandwiches. She takes care of all the artistic direction (the atmosphere of the place and the plate), he of the figures and of daily life. Before serving, he often strums on his Mac, sitting at one of the tables where the fries will soon be spilled. Above her head, the photos of the burgers sparkle with minimalism. The sandwiches are one, two or three layers, with or without bacon, with or without cheese, with or without pickles. The base.
Neither surprise nor disappointment
On the set, the reality is warm, well rounded, enclosed in a sheet of lightly waxed white paper. The fries, dressed in their skin, are golden and crispy. No surprises or disappointments. The fried chicken tries to camouflage itself by adopting the tone on tone with the bun. The yellow-brown monochrome is broken by the cucumber pickles whose faded green emerges from the edges of the sandwich.
No more contemplation, it’s time to take a bite. The potatoe bun is both airy and very present, slightly sweetened by the potato starch which gives it all these bonhomie characteristics. The crispness of the fried chicken is supported by the tenderness of the bread. The cocktail sauce (homemade mayonnaise + ketchup) is enriched with paprika, Worcester sauce, a touch of white balsamic vinegar.
The cilantro seeds soaked in the sweet vinegar of pickles sometimes explode when you bite into chicken. The effect is surprising before being succulent. This ingredient involuntarily slipped there brings a vegetal touch in a strictly junk table. There is also finesse in a dish as common as a burger.
Sadness, the cookie that concludes lunch is not up to par. Too believed in heart, it becomes disgusting. A sip of pilsner beer matured for forty-five days solves the problem. Despite everything, we would have preferred the sundae, the photo of which is extra-enticing. He’s not ready yet. Too bad, we’ll come back.
The address Baby Love Burger, 63, rue Saint-Maur, Paris 11e. Phone. : 09-87-19-28-08 Open daily from noon to 11 p.m.
The essential Le fried chicken.
The detail that is not a detail The backlit menu, run by Studio Furious, whose members are passionate about burgers.
L’addition Around 13 €.
Find here all our good addresses.