To create a brand of jeans without using new resources, that is the starting point of Uriel Karsenti, who chose a piece from the wardrobe whose manufacture is particularly energy-intensive, jeans. But the challenge does not scare the man who founded the more sustainable fashion label Maison Standards in 2013, of which he let go of the reins at the end of 2019. Annie Jeans – after her mother’s first name – is launching this season with the desire to offer unique jeans, transforming vintage Levi’s 501.
These mythical models of the 80s and 90s are unearthed in lots of second-hand jeans bought at the wholesaler Stock Vintage in Marseille. They then pass into the hands of Parisian retouchers, partners of the brand, who will cut and reassemble the pants in more current shapes. They are then dyed at Teintures de France in Bonneuil-sur-Marne, to give the pieces the Annie signature, a sort of colored patina available in pink, yellow or blue.
“The offer is already plethora and there are enough textile resources available to create new clothes, book Uriel Karsenti, present at the Who’s Next fair to exhibit his first models. Despite the awareness in the sector, it is it is still very difficult to recover and transform deposits of clothing, and we are currently carrying out artisanal work, in small quantities “.
Jeans, which will be marketed through drops, keep the Levi’s mention. “I contacted the brand and exposed my project, it gave me its authorization for the work we do on their second-hand items”, specifies the manager, who also toured different suppliers to get their hands on on discontinued blue canvas orders or unused materials. In parallel with the revisited Levi’s offer, cotton jeans and tee-shirts with the Annie Jeans logo will be made from these dormant stocks, this time in Portugal.
The first items have been sold since September 6 in the Merci concept store in Paris, while an Ulule presale has just been completed. In mid-September, the brand will above all open a boutique-workshop in Paris at 56 bis rue du Louvre where customers can choose or have their jeans repaired.
“The selling prices range between 120 and 170 euros, it is a high amount, but the jeans are guaranteed for life”, he explains. Because if the garment is worn, it will either be mended or replaced free of charge. Enough to once again feed the pool of jeans to be transformed. In fact, a used denim collection will be organized this fall.
Supported financially at start-up by relatives and a few business angels, Uriel Karsenti is already planning a fundraising within a year to support the launch of the brand. And hopes to be able to grow his team of five people, supported by freelancers.
“The road is long and it is a very complicated journey, even for someone in the sector, to try to make jeans in a circular fashion in France, but we believe in the potential of a premium brand that offers unique products. and made in Paris “, expresses the one who remained a shareholder of Maison Standards, and also approached the Filatures du Parc on the subject of the transformation of used jeans to recreate new threads.
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