12 sept. 2021
The pandemic – and its procession of restrictions put in place by the American authorities – still prevents European journalists from going to New York for Fashion Week, marked this season by the physical parades of dozens of local brands. Fortunately, Instagram, Zoom, Twitter and the oddly erratic platform of the CFDA allow you to discover most of the novelties of the American fashion scene.
The shadow of the 20th anniversary of the terrible 9/11 attacks hung over the weekend. The attacks took place in the middle of a New York fashion week, the day after a fashion show by Marc Jacobs – who had also invited his audience to a party on a jetty on the banks of the Hudson, with a breathtaking view of the Twin Towers in front of which it was fashionable to pose for a photo.
So far, the New York season is steeped in upbeat nostalgia and vibrant glamor, with a hint of spiritualism. Focus on four essential collections: those of 3 independent designers and a big house.
Jason Wu: Quirky Impressionism
The time spent alone during the pandemic has clearly been of use to Jason Wu, who showed off one of his best parades yet on Friday at lunchtime.
He organized his show in a downtown gallery, dotted with plants and flowers, around which his models strolled quietly. An atmosphere that continued in the collection, like this magnificent trio of black and anthracite looks printed with flowers, whose details were slightly disturbed: a suit made up of a bolero and a cardigan, a voluptuous dress and a sheath dress.
But where Jason Wu really got daring was in his expressionist, abstract and tie-dye prints, used on large crinolines, or on very beautiful short dresses with cutouts, which showed miles of legs. , as well as this set composed of a lilac cashmere sweater and a skirt embroidered with sequins.
As if the characters ofGone with the wind were immersed in the contemporary urban jungle, the collection managed to be romantic without losing its energy. A modernist dress reminiscent of Vivien Leigh was thus available in canary yellow or faded black.
By collaborating with textile designer Cara Marie Piazza, renowned for her impressionist and quirky ideas, Jason Wu has given another dimension to the collection. The designer had accustomed us to more convincing collections for winter than for summer – his parkas are essentials for the particularly harsh months of January and February in New York. But this collection escaped the rule; it is arguably the most memorable spring proposal Jason Wu has delivered to us to date.
Coach: When Bonnie Cashin hums “Buffalo Gals”
Few of the fashion designers capable of visual puns as sharp as Stuart Vevers at Coach.
His latest show for the mega-brand was announced by a series of wacky shows on “Coach TV”, available on Instagram, featuring characters. camp in retro colors, TV effect from the 1970s.
This season, Stuart Vevers offers a new take on the Bonnie Cashin bag, named after the designer behind the house, with a recycled leather strap. There was also a superb loose cotton sweatshirt, which read “Coach Leatherware”. The short video showcasing this look was accompanied by the playful slogan “Subverting American Classics Since 1941”.
“This spring collection unveils my new vocabulary of American fashion. It’s also a celebration of Bonnie Cashin’s colorful and carefree optimism,” says Stuart Vevers.
A step that we felt when discovering the superb parkas and raincoats in giant checks, or in houndstooth – all worn with small sports bras, military boots and men’s denim shorts.
The parade was mixed. The boys wore colorful parkas with large pockets, checkered harem pants and T-shirts with “Super Grump” written on them.
While many New York designers retreated to the Hamptons or their country home in the Berkshires last year, the great thing about Britain’s Stuart Vevers is that when he arrives in New York he immersed himself in the city’s culture. He really rubs shoulders with the local fauna, it shows in his collections, and especially in this one.
In one of his little videos on Coach TV, we see four young girls coming out of a subway station on line n ° 1, to the tune of “Buffalo Gals”, a hit by his British compatriot. , the late Malcolm McLaren.
Below the image, we can read: “Real New Yorkers know the best way to get to where you need to go is the subway” at destination is the metro “). Totally correct.
Brandon Maxwell: How to make a sensational, glamorous and sporty entrance
Gigi Hadid always gets the best looks. An absolute truth that was verified once again on Friday evening, during the parade of the American master of traditional glamor, Brandon Maxwell, during which the young mother wore a silver suit.
Done in a cloudy print, the pantsuit and padded jacket were, how to say, impeccably cut. The star model provided the attitude, hands in his pockets and open jacket over a matching bra, and demonstrated the look to adopt to ensure a smashing entry.
Gigi Hadid’s fan clubs on Twitter and Instagram instantly celebrated the event, posting videos of her returning backstage at the parade amid prolonged cheers.
Born in Texas – although six years after its founding, the New York character of his house is no longer to be proven – Brandon Maxwell began his career in fashion as a photo stylist. And the reflexes characteristic of his previous profession were clearly visible in the collection.
At 36, the designer likes his glamorous vision to be served as it is, without too many frills – from the long hippie dress printed with an orange and purple Japanese sun, to his short dresses with zebra patterns. But his most refreshing ideas are hands down the more psychedelic pieces, which add an unexpected touch to the whole.
All in all, this is a smart and smart proposition from Brandon Maxwell, but one can’t help but imagine what his work would be like if it contained a little more of his origins in the East. Texas and a little less of the city glamor of New York City.
Rodarte: Bank Street live on Amazon
Rodarte broadcast his parade – which took place at noon on Saturday at 155 Bank Street – directly on Amazon Live. The models roamed a West Village sculpture garden, just 20 blocks north of where the Twin Towers once stood.
It was by far the most striking collection presented in New York so far.
Los Angeles-based sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy cut their clothes exuberantly, like these large Victorian-era schoolgirl lace superheroine shoulder blouses.
Beautifully gathered and draped dresses preceded long kaftans worn over matching slacks. For the evening, the two founders of Rodarte proposed neglected in semi-transparent guipure revealing a lot of lingerie, declined in black, in immaculate white and in burgundy red. For special occasions, superb blazers with floral prints or coats embroidered with sequins, sunset color.
The movie star outfits in sequined stripes were eye-catching, as were the Chinese-inspired dresses covered in tart flowers, worn by smoky-eyed models.
Not everything was perfect – there was something anachronistic about the pleated shirts – but overall it was the most intriguing show of the American season.
The subtlety of the show found a perfect conclusion in the finale. The models appeared as priestesses, dressed in sleek sheath dresses, available in ecru, vanilla, pink and yellow tones, a thin golden collar around the neck, before positioning themselves on concrete columns. A strong image on this symbolic day, 20 years after the attacks which killed nearly 3,000 victims.
On a solemn soundtrack playing “Spa Hunter” by Dallas Acid, the two sisters greeted cautiously, dressed in a flowery ensemble and a western shirt, after the moment of grace they were able to offer their audience. .
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