During the pandemic the cinema has been stagnant without premieres. Now that we are beginning to see the light thanks to vaccination, one of the most desirable plans is to go to the movies. And the May 28 One of the most anticipated films of the year comes to the big screen: Cruella.
Emma Stone and Emma Thompson are the protagonists of this production, where the costumes are undoubtedly one more character. Costume designer Jenny Beavan, winner of two Oscars for Mad Max: Road Fury and A Room with a View, has been commissioned to create the dazzling designs for the film. The main cast looks 277 costumes, Cruella has 47 changes and the Baroness 33 changes, and 40,000 props were used. Numbers that demonstrate the awe-inspiring work that has gone into this fantastic production.
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The first time we met the character of Cruella de Vil was on the pages of Dodie Smith’s book in the 1950s. Later, he came to life on the big screen in the 1961 Disney animated film, also in the live-action remake. Disney’s 1996 film and its 2000 sequel. Today the character of Cruella de Vil continues to fascinate thanks to her exuberance, her theatricality and her acid wit.
In this image we see her with a spectacular creation in which the tail created with 5,060 petals and 393 meters of organza draws attention. One last!
Cruella, set in the London of the 70s in full revolution punk rock, tells the story of a young con artist named Estella, an intelligent and creative girl determined to make a name for herself with her designs. She befriends two young thieves who are fascinated by her desire for adventure, and together they will build their own lives on the streets of London.
One day, Estella’s style for fashion reaches the ears of Baroness Von Hellman, a fashion legend (role played by Emma Thompson) but their relationship brings to light certain events that will make Estella choose her perverse side and become Become a vindictive Cruella.
Disney’s new live-action movie, directed by Craig Gillespie (Yo, Tonya), premieres simultaneously in theaters and on Disney + through Premium Access at an additional cost. The film tells the rebellious beginnings of one of the most famous villains, none other than the legendary Cruella de Vil.
A wonderful wardrobe
The costumes are absolutely wonderful, one more character in the film. Many hours and a lot of effort went into creating the various looks by Cruella. The designer tells us that: “She led the team of Sarah Young, Sheara Abrahams and Sally Turner. They are all accredited costume designers. They covered different areas. If we had not acted that way we would not have succeeded. We also have a team of buyers. dedicated to looking for clothes, in addition to the seamstresses. The task was enormous but wonderful “.
The 1970s in London was a very specific period during which there was a culture clash in society and in fashion. On the one hand there was the elitist and aristocratic world with names like Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy and then Mary Quant, to whom we owe the mod look, which in the film is represented by the House of the Baroness and the symbols of wealth Regent’s Park.
On the other, the movement punk, Represented by the lower-class “squatters” of Notting Hill, it was the banner of aspiring self-taught and inventive designers with totally original styles such as Vivien Westwood and later on Alexander McQueen, on which the look by Estella. The clash between those two worlds provides the context for Cruella’s story.
Beavan explains that she read the script and found it very funny and daring: “It is the biggest thing I have done in my life. The number of outfits that Emma Stone wears exceeds everything I have done.” The actress has a total of 47 costume changes and Emma Thompson 33. The designer had to create a language for both characters, not only in the clothes they wore, but also in the clothing lines that each one of them created. The result is fascinating and very creative. Fashion was ubiquitous, so much so that Joel Fry and Paul Walter Hauser had 30 suits each.
Estella starts out being a little punk, but its true aesthetic consists of recycling certain garments to turn them into others. It starts out quite daring and becomes very chic and sophisticated. Its aesthetic is inspired by a photograph of Nina Hagen, the German punk rock-New Wave singer.
The Baroness is more dated. She wears thick taffeta, silk and satin dresses, lots of turbans, with a warm brown and gold color palette as Cruella totally takes over the black and white. “It’s very statuesque, very Dior. We wanted to recreate the old movie divas, from Joan Crawford to Elizabeth Taylor,” adds the designer.
In the film there are three great galas that required a very special wardrobe: the Baroness’s Marie Antoinette dance that Estella witnesses at age 12; the black-and-white dance in which Cruella appears in a red dress from Artie’s thrift store, with a white cape that lights up and the flames of which are computer-generated effects; and the Charity Gala in which Estella has sent all the guests black suits and black and white wigs.
There are also other moments when Cruella outshines the Baroness such as the moment when she arrives on a motorcycle in a shiny black leather jumpsuit with shoulders made of rims, a dress that wraps around the Baroness’s car, a ‘truck dress trash ‘with a 12-meter tail, made for the Baroness’s 1967 evening wear collection, and a Dalmatian-inspired coat. “It was important to me that Cruella was dressed in black, white, gray and red,” explains Beavan.
To complete the looks the filmmakers turned to the makeup and hair designs by Nadia Stacey. His assignment was to design 152 wigs for the Marie Antoinette Ball and 88 wigs for the Baroness Viking Gala Benefit Ball. The preparation time for each wig was 4 hours.
For Stacey, the biggest challenge was making Cruella seem different enough from Estella that the Baroness didn’t know she was the same person. The makeup artist explains that: “Cruella’s looks must have been spectacular, but in Estella’s case, I wanted to create a very special look, and my reference was almost always Debbie Harry. He had a not too flashy but very cool look, slightly akin to 70s punk. “
“In the case of Cruella, you had to go big. Her looks had to be impressive every time she appears on the screen. Also, as she was someone who is so fashion conscious and who always plays with her looks, it seemed to me that too I would give a lot of importance to hair and makeup, “he adds.
Stacey adds that: “With the Baroness, we wanted to make sure she was flawless. Perfect Nothing should be out of tune. His look is thought out to the smallest detail. We wanted the silhouette to always be the same. There is always something that pulls her back, be it her hair very far from her face, and transmits severity, a certain hardness. Her hairstyle and look were more like the style of the 50s. She has something of Audrey Hepburn on her. “
photos | Disney